July 2025.
I’m beaming in from the future today. We’re a month ahead in Northern Europe – our kids are very nearly back at school and offices are fully manned from August onwards – so if you’re in the UK or US, do enjoy it…it doesn’t last long enough.
I’m back from England, where we hiked a portion of the Southwest Coast Path as a family this summer. I have to say, I never thought we’d be that family. But it turns out, after a few years of trial and error, that we all prefer having a holiday where we’re actually doing something, not sitting on a beach, and we are actually, despite all appearances, a family that needs to have some kind of big physical adventure every year. I couldn’t be more delighted: there was no moaning and no blisters and we all had a great time. After getting all those miles (and haunted pubs, and smugglers caves, and Cornish pasties) under our belts, we’re thinking about which adventurous challenge to take on together next.
Instead of sharing recent stories this month, I thought I’d be useful and share some guides and ideas for anyone planning a trip to the region or who has one around the corner. Here’s hoping you have great weather and a fantastic trip!
Enjoy!
Laura
Scandinavia
Need to get away from it all? I hear ya. Here’s five remote hotels where you can regain a sense of peace this summer. It includes The Arctic Hideaway (above) where I wish I had gone to this year again. I miss it! Some of the best things about this region are the wide open spaces and the glorious sense of finding yourself alone in them. There are crowds in some places (cities, Lofoten, major cruise hubs mainly) but the wilderness is never too far away.
Copenhagen
Where to go shopping in Copenhagen - it’s old-ish but still a good one. There are unique shops out there, you just have to know where to find them.
Cheap hotels in Copenhagen - hard to find at this time of year, it has to be said, but I did some digging on your behalf.
Make sure you take a daytrip out of the city while you’re here. You could do worse than go snooping around Hamlet’s castle - I’m off there this afternoon again, as it happens…I love exploring Helsingør.
What would I do: Pack a swim suit and spend a sunny afternoon by the harbour. Or seek out modern art at Arken or Copenhagen Contemporary. I found the current exhibitions at both very thought provoking.
Oslo
I did this awesome Edvard Munch tour of Oslo earlier this year and it unlocked all these beautiful and sometimes harrowing spots around the city. Ekeberg Park was particularly fun to visit at sunset.
Looking for somewhere great to eat in Oslo? There are more and more great spots opening up. Keep an eye on Anders Husa for the best tips. I long to be back in Oslo drinking wine in a little eight-seater bar with friends.
If you’re interested in New Nordic food, the National Gallery has an exhibition all about it, running this summer.
What would I do: While away an afternoon in the retro shops and cafes of Grünerløkka, Oslo. I would also take a trip to Bergen while I’m in Norway, because I love it and it’s been too long…
Stockholm
I am ashamed to say that I haven’t set foot in Sweden yet this year! What a travesty. But if I did, I would try out the hiking trail around Stockholm’s archipelago, which opened last year and connects the islands via public ferries.
I also like the sound of these cooking holidays with Somerset chef Jacob Whitson in the heart of Sweden: Secret Sweden. He’s a great believer in local and sustainable food and knows his stuff.
I loved Artipelag, an art gallery in the Stockholm archipelago that I visited a few years ago, and would love to go again.
What would I do: Fantasise about filling our new house with things from exuberant design store Svenskt Tenn.
Inspiration
Some things keeping me fuelled this month:
Going on holiday? Mind out for the insecurity check. This Lucy Davidson short film is brilliant.
I really liked this take on tourism and overtourism in Japan, and particuarly the section on why people create small businesses.
My book has a page on Amazon now. If you’re interested to hear more about it, do follow me on Instagram (@laura_hall_swimstagram) where I’ll be sharing some of it over the upcoming months.
Where next?
East Greenland. Dreaming, planning, thinking about going to the wildest spot on the world’s largest island in August, where I’ll be staying in a glacier hut.
Iceland. I’m dropping into one of my favourite cities in the world, Reykjavik, on the way back too, to go walking among the volcanoes.
Oslo. Now that I’m the Telegraph Travel Oslo Expert, I will be spending a bit more time in what’s becoming my favourite Scandinavian city.
Thanks for subscribing to Modern Scandinavian. I’m so happy that you’re here. Laura
